Where to start?

Where to start?

Again and again there is always this urge to go out and climb and explore whatever feels natural to go to.  Again and again there is something written about these things that echo in our minds.  The next best trip, the next best article, the next best photo. The story that will be told unfolds and the pages of climbing history again written in light of its writer’s perspective. 

Everyone has his or her own take on the happenings.  The rocktrip, the burly competition, the breakthroughs. . .  every single event has a character we wish to re-live.  It has been  more than a decade now and a lot has transpired in Philippine climbing.  No longer can we say that our experience is still in infancy. But then again, in comparison to European or American climbing, ours is truly a baby.  We write our own pages but sometimes we take things for granted.  It is true that the best stories will be the ones you say or hear first hand.  But also in the passing of years these stories will be told by someone who wasn’t even there.  These stories become legendary.  They become hyped, super stylized and even overwhelmingly inspirational.  There is nothing wrong with this of course but I feel to get people more involved in climbing, there is a need to get these events written down somehow.  We always stumble upon this most famous saying “with great power comes great responsibility”.  I heard it from a Marvel comic book and somehow it transcends onto everything.  Our society thrives on its past.  Without the Microsoft Windows 2000, there couldn’t be a Windows Vista.  Those who weave the present day pave the way for the future.  Those who blazed in the past, shape our present. 

So, where to start? The many stories in and out of climbing draw inspiring paintings in our minds.  Sometimes we need these things and though the many photos that fly on the internet create a hype themselves, there is nothing like a good story told in a vivid literary piece. 

There are a few stories that could be written soon.  That climbing trip to Cantabaco and Dingle, Miel and Ina’s trip to Yangshou, China, and that bolting project in Caramoan, Camarines Sur.   There could also be this trip to Pagudpod for bouldering on the Kapurpurawan Rocks and Xtian’s exploits on his 2 month stay in Hong Kong.  We don’t have a magazine to do this nor do we have a steady flow of climbing videos to present Philippine climbing to the future.  What we have though is a good network of people on the internet. There is no consumption of paper, just the bashing of brain cells to create art or even just plain old news casting. 

If you feel that need to create, whether it be single photo, or a worded painting of your most recent trip, use the net.  Start somewhere, share and for sure it’s going to “Multiply”.

Warp Speed !

Warp Speed !

Projects, new areas, new motivation, new year ahead . . . good vibes and lots of fuel to burn . . .  It keeps getting better and better!

I'm still uncertain though if this feeling is something I and few climbers share.  Imagining all the possible ways for which to go to inspires me to move forward and not think of any of the circumstances which might arise from abrupt decisions that are sure to be made.  Whatever they are though, I'm sure there will be  recourses for some rectification.

Coming from more than a month long exposure to climbing in Europe has fueled my desire to climb more.  Coming back home, I'm now more driven to look for places, new areas, and  new rocks to climb on.  A month now has passed since I came back and right now things are really looking great.

There are  now plans of going over to the Bicol Region for some bolting on the virgin rocks of Caramoan, Camarines Sur.  The limestone there looks really solid and maybe there will be a super route to sink our fingers on.  The plans are solidifying even as I write. A project route, a 120 ft. long single pitch badass that will not go in just one visit, is something that has been on my mind lately.  To bolt something like that and climb it is going to push so many limits.

There's also a new bouldering area that promises new sights and a different setting in Pagudpod.  The white cliff band on the beach looks really impressive.  Bouldering is really nice and powerfull, but bouldering by the beach imaginably  presents more energy.  The crashing of the waves over some of the rocks creates a background that is surreal.  The energy will be overwhelming and yet I could also visualize the sun setting and the waves giving off a calming effect.

Chris Lindner's visit, I believe, has also made a huge impact in everyone who climbs and who wants to climb.  It's a solid showing that no where is ever too far or too obscure if your desire is bigger than you.  Last Sunday's event overpoured with energy and it undeniably started a lot of people on their own personal journeys and with this it has also started something anew for Philippine climbing.

Climbing in the Philipines is definitely beautiful.  The rocks are pure, no chipped holds, everything is natural and the hikes into the jungles for a single area provides a lot of  adventure and adds to the total make up of the stories.  The climbing areas in our small archipelago are still hidden from most of the world but it is also this that makes it unique. The climbing areas are scattered all over the country, each one giving a different experience.  Those who come to explore climbing here is rewarded with quality climbing and a lot of friendly faces eager to meet new people who share the same passion.  

European Climbing

European Climbing

I'm home at last.  I still feel tired and my day is starting out slow. Orpierre, Ceuse, Vailfroide, Rodellar, Perticara, Fosso Dell' Eremo, Monte Aquilone and Maiolo now become mere bits and pieces of memory stored away in the vast depths of my conciousness.  It's amazing how every experience we have soon become something like digital records that gets burried deep within our brains.  It's so hard remaining in the moment of every happening. Time passes by so fast and sometimes it is as if as soon as you start something it's already finished.  The past 40 days have truly awakened me.  The climbing, the people, the culture and the places have changed me somehow.  It's not an apparent change that would have me acting so differently in an instant but something more subtle.  All the small details I've seen, heard and felt along the way have once more contributed to my way of thinking.  It's a change I'm welcoming freely.

Where to go now?  Mallorca, Kalymnos, Albaraccin...  I'm still unsure of the next trip.  The where, when and if ever at all still escapes me. There are so many interesting places and the number of crags increases with new discoveries.  I'm glad I'm given the opportunity to see these places.  

Ravenna

Ravenna

Only two days of climbing left.  This climbing trip has truly been an eye opener.  I've learned so much and have met so many interesting people.  Life on the road is a very enriching experience. I would do it all over again if given the opportunity. 

My time here in Ravenna has been very relaxing.  I've been waking up late and having huge dinners compliments of Shane and Oscar.  On my first night, Shane cooked "Sinigang" and so I almost ate an entire kilo of pork with two full bowls of rice.  Italian food is "buonissimo" but I feel I miss pinoy food.  On my last night Shane promises to have an "Adobo" night.  It will be a party with everyone who I climbed with here in Ravenna. 

We go to different climbing areas everyday and so there isn't a chance to project something.  It is a good motivation though to onsight.  Perticarra and Monte Aquilone are both sandstone crags and have been very interesting.  Today we will also be going to Maiolo, also sandstone but for bouldering.  We tried to go there two days ago but it was raining.  We went to the Marina instead to do some climbing on plasitc.  It felt wierd somehow. After climbing on rock for sometime, I think I've lost some plastic skills.  There will be enough time though to get back into it.  I'm also excited to go back home for the Purisho Cup. 

Fosso Dell' Erremo is the nicest crag I've been to so far here in Italy.  It's an hour and a half to go there by car.  The place looks like a smaller version of Rodellar and climbing there felt really natural.  The routes at the Grottone Sector are no less than 30 meters.  The long routes really remind me of some sectors in Rodellar.

Well, two days can still be a long time.  I hope I can squeeze in as much climbing as I can in such a short time.  The Rock Masters in Arco starts on Saturday too.  Sadly I won't be able to watch.  Perhaps next year, who knows? 

All business . . .

All business . . .

Rodellar has truly pushed my climbing up.  I feel I've never climbed so much in a day anywhere else than on it's cliffs.  My fingers got bruised and I ripped some skin off and my rest days was reduced to just one over the ten days I was there.  Everyday was a hard day in Rodellar. 

The many people who climb there inspires me.  Fatima finished her project, a bouldery 7a+ and she continued to push harder on some 7b's,  Tita, a late-50's, lady climbs 8a's on "La Surgencia", a very steep cliff sector, then a strong spanish climber with one leg climbs on "Gran Boveda", and finally a huge family with 6 children with the oldest being 12 and the youngest being 5 all climbing 7a+.  Then there's also Dalia Ojeda.  She is so pretty and strong.  Anyone who sees her will surely be inspired!

I tried as hard as I could on my project.  Fatima and I even went on to sacrifice a day in Barcelona just for one more day at the crag.  In the end though I left "Familia Manson" still a project for me.  It could have been better but I'm glad I tired.  I think I fell on it 17 times.  I got way past the crux but carrying the pump all the way to the anchors proved to be another difficult task.  I kept falling 2 moves from the anchor.  I'm sure to think about it in days to come.  This will indeed be a very special route for me.  Even though I've left it behind, I'm carrying with me a high regard for it and maybe if given the opportunity, will surely come back and try it again.

I've barely touched what Rodellar has to offer.  It's cliffs are varied and every sector requires a different climbing style.  It's a strange feeling, leaving something behind just as soon as you're getting to know it.  Ten days isn't enough to fully develop a keen sense of familiarity and comfort with the rocks on its many sectors.  I don't know for sure when will be the next time I will be there or even if there will be a next time.  It feels sad but I think the future would hold new things for me.  I have 1 more week of climbing here in Italy and I feel more motivated than ever. 

8a, 8a+ and flappers

8a, 8a+ and flappers

After 6 tries over 3 days I´ve finally made progress on my first 8a in Rodellar.  It feels like breaking through a boundary. It definitely feels good.  What´s even amazing is that it came at a time when it was just a climb and nothing more.  I simply enjoyed it and as soon as I came down from it I immediately felt sad it was over.  The trying presented more meaning than the end itself.  

The 8a+ however felt different.  I´ve still to try it today.  I´ve been falling on it 9 times already and on my last good effort, ripped some skin off.  I have a huge flapper on my middle finger and it is deeper than any I´ve had.  Though it´s still painful and raw I will still try the route today.  Whatever happens will be acceptable at this point. 

Rodellar

Rodellar

My one night in Barcelona was quite "romantic",  I found myself wandering off in medieval alleys in the old city.  La Rambla in itself is a feast for the eyes.  Sagrada de familia is still being constructed.  One poster says it´s completion in 2020.  Who knows really.  My one night in this backpacker´s inn had me sharing good conversation with two lovely Italians over the balcony of our room while also watching the dim streets become empty. 

The drive to Rodellar was a difficult one.  The long drive on the Autovia alone is definietly a crux.  The high cost of the car rent had me very carefull of the driving.  I did manage to hack in 155km/hr.  The car is a small Citroen car but as small at it is, it was just powerful!

Yes, Rodellar!  It is indeed a wonder!  The caves upon which the routes are bolted on are gigantic.  Routes are severely overhangging and the lengths go up to 40m and up.

I´m back at a relatively  familiar comfort zone.  I´m with Shane and Oscar and they have been truly kind and graciuos.  I´m treated every night to a pasta dinner at camp and a huge blowout with paella at the bar last night.  Sangria is the drink of choice and I find it truly lovely.

The grades in Rodellar, I think is softer, than Ceuse.  I´ve been onsighting 7b´s here and have jumped on two 8a´s already.  I´ve had the opportunity to be belayed by a very patient Shane and Oscar.  One of these routes I´ve tried and fallen off already 3 times and have come to be quite attatched to it.  I think I will work on it more.  I´m pushing it here but my body is becoming tired everyday.  I hope I can manage to hang on for a bit more longer. 

Dany Andrada was at the bar last night and I also saw Pablo Barbero at the cliffs.  Hope to see them climbing some more to get a dose of inspiration. 

Well, more days in Rodellar would present me some more possibilitites.  I´m excited for each day.  I wonder what will happen today: