European Climbing

European Climbing

I'm home at last.  I still feel tired and my day is starting out slow. Orpierre, Ceuse, Vailfroide, Rodellar, Perticara, Fosso Dell' Eremo, Monte Aquilone and Maiolo now become mere bits and pieces of memory stored away in the vast depths of my conciousness.  It's amazing how every experience we have soon become something like digital records that gets burried deep within our brains.  It's so hard remaining in the moment of every happening. Time passes by so fast and sometimes it is as if as soon as you start something it's already finished.  The past 40 days have truly awakened me.  The climbing, the people, the culture and the places have changed me somehow.  It's not an apparent change that would have me acting so differently in an instant but something more subtle.  All the small details I've seen, heard and felt along the way have once more contributed to my way of thinking.  It's a change I'm welcoming freely.

Where to go now?  Mallorca, Kalymnos, Albaraccin...  I'm still unsure of the next trip.  The where, when and if ever at all still escapes me. There are so many interesting places and the number of crags increases with new discoveries.  I'm glad I'm given the opportunity to see these places.  

Ravenna

Ravenna

Only two days of climbing left.  This climbing trip has truly been an eye opener.  I've learned so much and have met so many interesting people.  Life on the road is a very enriching experience. I would do it all over again if given the opportunity. 

My time here in Ravenna has been very relaxing.  I've been waking up late and having huge dinners compliments of Shane and Oscar.  On my first night, Shane cooked "Sinigang" and so I almost ate an entire kilo of pork with two full bowls of rice.  Italian food is "buonissimo" but I feel I miss pinoy food.  On my last night Shane promises to have an "Adobo" night.  It will be a party with everyone who I climbed with here in Ravenna. 

We go to different climbing areas everyday and so there isn't a chance to project something.  It is a good motivation though to onsight.  Perticarra and Monte Aquilone are both sandstone crags and have been very interesting.  Today we will also be going to Maiolo, also sandstone but for bouldering.  We tried to go there two days ago but it was raining.  We went to the Marina instead to do some climbing on plasitc.  It felt wierd somehow. After climbing on rock for sometime, I think I've lost some plastic skills.  There will be enough time though to get back into it.  I'm also excited to go back home for the Purisho Cup. 

Fosso Dell' Erremo is the nicest crag I've been to so far here in Italy.  It's an hour and a half to go there by car.  The place looks like a smaller version of Rodellar and climbing there felt really natural.  The routes at the Grottone Sector are no less than 30 meters.  The long routes really remind me of some sectors in Rodellar.

Well, two days can still be a long time.  I hope I can squeeze in as much climbing as I can in such a short time.  The Rock Masters in Arco starts on Saturday too.  Sadly I won't be able to watch.  Perhaps next year, who knows? 

All business . . .

All business . . .

Rodellar has truly pushed my climbing up.  I feel I've never climbed so much in a day anywhere else than on it's cliffs.  My fingers got bruised and I ripped some skin off and my rest days was reduced to just one over the ten days I was there.  Everyday was a hard day in Rodellar. 

The many people who climb there inspires me.  Fatima finished her project, a bouldery 7a+ and she continued to push harder on some 7b's,  Tita, a late-50's, lady climbs 8a's on "La Surgencia", a very steep cliff sector, then a strong spanish climber with one leg climbs on "Gran Boveda", and finally a huge family with 6 children with the oldest being 12 and the youngest being 5 all climbing 7a+.  Then there's also Dalia Ojeda.  She is so pretty and strong.  Anyone who sees her will surely be inspired!

I tried as hard as I could on my project.  Fatima and I even went on to sacrifice a day in Barcelona just for one more day at the crag.  In the end though I left "Familia Manson" still a project for me.  It could have been better but I'm glad I tired.  I think I fell on it 17 times.  I got way past the crux but carrying the pump all the way to the anchors proved to be another difficult task.  I kept falling 2 moves from the anchor.  I'm sure to think about it in days to come.  This will indeed be a very special route for me.  Even though I've left it behind, I'm carrying with me a high regard for it and maybe if given the opportunity, will surely come back and try it again.

I've barely touched what Rodellar has to offer.  It's cliffs are varied and every sector requires a different climbing style.  It's a strange feeling, leaving something behind just as soon as you're getting to know it.  Ten days isn't enough to fully develop a keen sense of familiarity and comfort with the rocks on its many sectors.  I don't know for sure when will be the next time I will be there or even if there will be a next time.  It feels sad but I think the future would hold new things for me.  I have 1 more week of climbing here in Italy and I feel more motivated than ever. 

8a, 8a+ and flappers

8a, 8a+ and flappers

After 6 tries over 3 days I´ve finally made progress on my first 8a in Rodellar.  It feels like breaking through a boundary. It definitely feels good.  What´s even amazing is that it came at a time when it was just a climb and nothing more.  I simply enjoyed it and as soon as I came down from it I immediately felt sad it was over.  The trying presented more meaning than the end itself.  

The 8a+ however felt different.  I´ve still to try it today.  I´ve been falling on it 9 times already and on my last good effort, ripped some skin off.  I have a huge flapper on my middle finger and it is deeper than any I´ve had.  Though it´s still painful and raw I will still try the route today.  Whatever happens will be acceptable at this point. 

Rodellar

Rodellar

My one night in Barcelona was quite "romantic",  I found myself wandering off in medieval alleys in the old city.  La Rambla in itself is a feast for the eyes.  Sagrada de familia is still being constructed.  One poster says it´s completion in 2020.  Who knows really.  My one night in this backpacker´s inn had me sharing good conversation with two lovely Italians over the balcony of our room while also watching the dim streets become empty. 

The drive to Rodellar was a difficult one.  The long drive on the Autovia alone is definietly a crux.  The high cost of the car rent had me very carefull of the driving.  I did manage to hack in 155km/hr.  The car is a small Citroen car but as small at it is, it was just powerful!

Yes, Rodellar!  It is indeed a wonder!  The caves upon which the routes are bolted on are gigantic.  Routes are severely overhangging and the lengths go up to 40m and up.

I´m back at a relatively  familiar comfort zone.  I´m with Shane and Oscar and they have been truly kind and graciuos.  I´m treated every night to a pasta dinner at camp and a huge blowout with paella at the bar last night.  Sangria is the drink of choice and I find it truly lovely.

The grades in Rodellar, I think is softer, than Ceuse.  I´ve been onsighting 7b´s here and have jumped on two 8a´s already.  I´ve had the opportunity to be belayed by a very patient Shane and Oscar.  One of these routes I´ve tried and fallen off already 3 times and have come to be quite attatched to it.  I think I will work on it more.  I´m pushing it here but my body is becoming tired everyday.  I hope I can manage to hang on for a bit more longer. 

Dany Andrada was at the bar last night and I also saw Pablo Barbero at the cliffs.  Hope to see them climbing some more to get a dose of inspiration. 

Well, more days in Rodellar would present me some more possibilitites.  I´m excited for each day.  I wonder what will happen today:

Barcelona

Barcelona

Hola!  It´s no use for me now remembering what day it is so I think it´s best I change the headings on this blog.  I´m in Barcelona for a night before heading out to Rodellar.  The car hire office is closed on Sundays so I think it´s a good enough reason  to check out the local scene.  I´m at a backpacker´s inn and its so cool here!  Hope my room mates are o.k. Haven´t seen them yet.  I´ll go down La Rambla later and have a cerveza!

Well, Ceuse was a blast!  I can´t explain how much it has given me.  New friends, new highs, new experiences...it´s just so enormous.  I finished "La Privilege du Serpent" in plenty of time to enjoy the other routes.  It took me 8 tries to finish it.  It felt good and I hope i could push myself even further in Rodellar.  The last day at Ceuse was probably the best.  I was climbing without thinking of finishing anything.  The day started with me falling on the 2nd clip of a 6c+.  Then a flash for "Super Mickey" a 7b, I think, and then just before leaving an onsight of "Vagabond" a 7c.  Finishing "La Privilege Du Serpent" was definitely harder and fulfilling for me but the onsight of "Vagabond" was more delightful.  I wasn´t thinking of finsihing it one go but it eventually did.  It feels so grand.  Grades at Ceuse are meaningless.  The variety of climbing will eventually reveal to you your weaknesses and strengths.  Sometimes there are routes which are graded higher which I feel are easier.  I´m weak on slabs in Ceuse.  The overhanging routes feel easier for me.  I did enjoy climbing on the slabs and for me has taught me good lessons but playing on my stregnths felt so natural.

I will miss Ceuse and I hope to visit it again.  

Day ?

Day ?

Viola!  Am in Gap, an hour away from Ceuse.  I don't exactly know what day it is now.  I lost count already.   It rained today at 1:30 p.m. I'm glad I woke up early today to do some more climbing at the Cascade area.  It is in the shade only in the morning and so it's a must to go up the cliff while it's still cool.  I've been hiking up that cliff for three days now and everyday seems to present new things for me.  I'm also constantly changing climbing partners as most of them leave or have another schedule to keep.  It's interesting to be with different people.  Sm still so stoked by all of this. 

Yesterday we went almost the whole length of Ceuse.  From the overhangging cliffs of the Cascade area, to Biographie and the Demi Lune.  Realization is indeed an inspiring route.  I think the start isn't at all impossible.  Given time I think some pinoyclimber could take up the task.  To do it though would take a lot of patience and hard work.

Also I was able to watch this lovely french climber hike up a technical route.  She is so hot!  Reminds me of a friend but my friend is lovelier for sure!  Hehehe...   it's only today that I saw her picture in a climbing magazine.  Turns out she is a star here and is a sponsored climber. 

Tres bien …

I've been falling off "Le previlage ..."  for 5 times now.  The route is a dynamic one.  Holds are quite massive but far apart.  The crux is at the very top and so it has a very mental aspect for me.  I'm already familiar with all the moves and all of the different pumps on it.  Resting before the crux move isn't at all restfull for me and as soon as I leave for the crux I can almost feel the pump surging back fast. 

I've also tried some slabs and to be honest they scare me more.  The long runs for the bolts go up to 3 meters and some routes sometimes 4 meters.  I don't mind falling on an overhangging route but the thought of falling on a slab is quite nerve wracking.  Still though I try everything and for every one route I finish brings me closer to facing more and more of my weaknesses.

It's amazing here in Ceuse. It is truly overwhelming.  At first it shrinks you and then the next, it presents you itself in a very opposite way.  It welcomes you and draws you closer to itself and makes you want to come back.  The cold 1 hour hikes to the cliff is tiring but once you're there its always a grand feeling.  The people at the cliff become friends and the feeling of being alone is replaced with closeness.  Words can't fully cover the meaning of climbing in Ceuse. 

Well, I have to go.  My friend is waiting for me at the town center.  It's easy to get rides here. Just be friends with everyone and for sure you'll get the right ride on the right time.  

Ciao!  Au revoir!