Tuesday, January 10, 2012


Alex Espina ballin' on "The Messenger" - Project

High Ballin' sounds a bit intimidating.  No, not sounds like ... it is!  While the likes of Alex Honold, Steph Davis, Dean Potter and a number of other climbers have taken the level of climbing up ginormous cliffs to their own respective levels, some of us have elected to remain greatly earthed to the self preserving nature of human kind.  Most of these highly evolved climbers have truly taken great leaps in terms of extending comfort zones on the edge.  Breaking through your best climbing form of latest isn't very easy.  But I'm looking up to them now and I feel it's time to breathe fire !  Welcome the Dragon Year !

The last trip to the crags have again reminded me of the next steps I need to do to break through those self-imposed blocks.  There are still some projects left undone.  One spectacular line that I'm looking at is this one we've dubbed "The Messenger" project.

Looking at it from this vantage point, on the screen of my laptop, it doesn't look so high at all and from the last visit to the area, I felt the holds not so heinous at all.  The crimps felt better and pulling on them felt lighter. The conditions aren't right as of yet.  The rock is continually wet and one crash pad doesn't seem to help my mind get out the bend.

Fats Niones on the stretch on "Bed Weather" 
The following day, I've taken the trip to the gym and started pulling down on crimps.  Continued crimping intervals and finally a crimpy problem to help boost the good feel.  

I've also made a pact with a Xtian Guerrero to work this line.  It may take a few  months, probably 2, before the   conditions   turn for the better.  That's a lot of time to boost the crimping confidence.  This also serves as a shout out to those owning a crashpad to help our cause.  As of the moment, we've one crashpad waiting.  The landing under that boulder got dug out by the recent rising of the river.  A couple of more pads should help us brave up for the ascent.  

Well, that's a rough.  It will be a while before I can post anything more in the endeavor.   Few trips here and there to get my head out of the obsession for a while.  

Callin' out the boys to jump into the wagon.  It's an open project and everyone is invited.  Send the message, send "The Messenger" before it sends you.  

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